Circular Walk By The River Devon Between Tillicoultry And Dollar

12 June 2009

See also the concise version of this walk.

Many people walk along the Devon Way, a mostly level well-laid path along an old railway track, through the lovely countryside between Tillicoultry and Dollar.

But there are places where you can step off it and walk along farm tracks or the river bank, making for a much more beautiful and varied experience.

Map of River Devon walk between Tillicoultry and Dollar

Walk route. Approximate distances: 1-2: 500m; 2-4: 260m; 4-5: 200m; 5-9: 670m; 9-12: 480m; 12-14: 130m; 14-15: 650m; 15-2: 100m
See this area on an OS map. (Starting point circled.)

Dame's Violet (Hesperis matronalis)

In June there's a lot of Dame's Violet (Hesperis matronalis) near the river (10 June 2009)

This circular 2-mile walk is my enduring favourite in this part of Scotland and, with the proviso that there are times when certain sections might best be bypassed (see text), I recommend it at any time of the year.

In fact I suggest you do it several times over a year, and then some more, because the section of the River Devon it covers changes constantly, and not just as a result of the cycle through the seasons.

The line of the river migrates rapidly enough that, in places, it is easily noticeable over the course of a year or less.

The weather makes a difference too.

Especially in the summer, the river is often shallow in places, so you could ford it in wellington boots.

But it can rise quickly and it is not unusual for it to flood after a few days of sustained heavy rain in the Ochils, the origin of most of its water.

You can also add your own variety by mixing and matching it with the alternative route following the same loop on farm tracks and more of the Devon Way (to follow).

This is a lovely walk. I hope you enjoy it time and again!

Technicalities

Distance: 3.4 km (2.1 miles). This can be shortened or lengthened by taking alternative paths. See map and main text.
Grade: 2

Dogs

This part deals with the appropriateness of the walk for dogs. For possible difficulties your dog might have with the route, see the main text.

Dames Violet (Hesperis matronalis)

The variety of shades makes the Dame's Violet particularly pretty (10 June 2009)

Different sections of the route require different considerations.

Dogs On The Devon Way

Dogs are welcome on the Devon Way, which has the two dog waste bins on or near the walk - one at the start and the other by the alternative parking spot at 16 on the map.

Dogs On The River Bank

Most of the route follows a narrow band of unused land between the river and enclosed fields.

At the time of writing, the section between 9 and 14 on the map has been open to the Devon Way via a gap in the fence almost continuously for a number of years, though I have seen cattle here.

Dogs On Farm Tracks

There are two sections, adding up to about 100m, where the route takes you onto farm tracks - from the Devon Way to 2 and at 9, where it cross the river.

Not long ago signs were put up instructing dogs to be put on a leash within the estate to the south of the Devon Way, including the tracks outside of the enclosed fields. The next time I came this way, the signs had been removed.

It is understandable that the land manager might want dogs kept on leads at all times, especially if there have been 'dog-related' incidents in the past.

Makeshift bridge over a shallow burn on the walk

Makeshift bridge over shallow burn (June 2009)

However, if there are no farm animals in the vicinity and no other reason under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code for doing so, the Code might mean that you have the right to walk your dog off the lead on the whole of this route.

(NB. I believe that to be the case but am no expert. I suggest you read Taking Your Dog and follow the links on that page to make your own judgement and seek advice.)

Bikes

In my opinion riding a bike on much of this route incompatible with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code guidelines on responsible behaviour when cycling because the ground by the river is loose and the banks are eroding rapidly in places.

There is also a safety element in that sections of the bank often fall away into the river, sometimes taking a chunk of the path, and it is much easier to spot and avoid the risk on foot.

I have walked the banks here on numerous occasions I don't think I have ever seen anyone trying to cycle here.

Starting Point

OS Landranger Map 58, grid reference NS939973 (lay-by on A91, N56.15719 W3.70943)

Navigation

Navigation is straightforward.

Terrain

There are a number of styles, banks and other minor obstacles to negotiate.

The path is narrow in places.

Young Himalayan Balsam

In a few months dense areas of Himalayan Balsam will be above head height (10 June 2009)

Not many people walk along the river between 14 and 15 and in the summer parts of the section get overgrown, though being mostly close to the river it isn't hard to find your way. In places you may find yourself trampling nettles and thistles.

The invasive Himalayan Balsam grows above head height in the summer and can overwhelm the path in places, though it is easy to trample down.

The flowers, from early July, have a thick sickly sweet smell and attract numerous bees, that get so covered in the pollen that they can look almost white.

Other Things To Note

Farm Animals

Usually you will find no farm animals on any part of the walk, but treat it as any field containing farm animals if you do.

Anglers

Please respect people fishing here, especially if you have a dog.

There is no fishing on Sundays.

See the Devon Angling Association website for permits.

Toads Squash

Watch out for toads, especially on the Devon Way section, and particularly from dusk onwards and when it is wet.

Some have a tendency to stay still in the face of oncoming boots and bicycles and squashing one will spoil the day for both you and the toad.

Getting There

From the east:

Follow the A91 through Dollar. The lay-by is on the left immediately after a sharp bend to the left about one mile from the end of the village.

From the west:

Follow the A91 through Tillicoultry. The lay-by is on the right about 0.8 miles past the garden centre and driving range at the edge of the village.

From the south:

Follow signs to Tillicoultry, via Alloa, and turn right onto the A91 at Tillicoultry.

The bank up to the Devon Way

The Devon Way is level - once you get up this bank (11 June 2009)

The Walk

Follow the twenty metre path from the lay-by at 1 and turn left on to the Devon Way.

To get onto the Way you must climb a metre or so high bank. See adjacent photo.

Alternative parking offering easier access to the path can be found at 16. However, the walk has more difficult obstacles to deal with and you you might prefer to take the more level route using farm tracks (to follow).

The river comes close a few metres along the Devon Way. This is a lovely spot with a picnic table and two one-person seats, giving unhindered views of both the river with fields and low forested ridge beyond to the south, and the steep escarpment of the Ochil Hills about a kilometre to the north.

The tree-filled walled enclosure in the field to the north is a private cemetery known as Tait's Tomb, and is where amongst others, Craufurd Tait of Harviestoun was buried in 1832. It is not possible to enter the cemetery. Nearby Harviestoun Castle was demolished in 1970.

Turn right into the first track off the Devon Way and cross the style on the left at the far side of the bridge (2) onto a foot-worn path alongside the river. A hole in the fence allows dogs through.

At 3 you can walk down to a beach where the line of the river is migrating north, though it is easier to cut the corner, following the path as shown on the map rather than trying to stay close to the river.

Wood Anemone by the River Devon

The section between 4 and 5 is pleasantly wooded and carpeted with Wood Anemone in the spring (5 Apr 09)

There are access points to farm tracks at 4 (via a gate) and 5 (via a gap in the fence).

To continue on the main walk, stay on the riverbank, crossing two channels flowing out from the fields. The first has a small bridge and the second is directed through a pipe, making it easy to cross except when the river level is particularly high.

At 6 follow the path outside of the field. You can get down to the beach at 7, where the river is eating into the bank on the far side while new land builds up on the near side.

In recent years Himalayan Balsam has taken over behind the beach here.

At 8 the river is migrating south, moving several metres in the last five years and eating into the field.

Enough of the fence has been removed to allow you to walk past and then continue outside the field again. I imagine a new fence will be put up further back from the river at some point.

Do not walk too close to the edge here. As at other locations on this walk, the river hollows out the bank which then falls away in chunks, sometimes taking a bite a metre wide and half a metre or more deep.

Stonefly at the River Devon

Stonefly on a stone at the edge of the river (22 March 2008)

Cross the bridge at 9 and immediately turn right and under it to continue along another foot-worn path on the north bank.

Watch your footing as you come up the other side as there are the remains of an old iron fence lurking in the growth and ready to trip.

If the river is high enough to cover the bank under the bridge, use the style on the left instead.

At 10 is the small pond I wrote about in early April, when embryonic tadpoles were starting to move in the frog spawn. Over two months later they are doing well.

The path runs above this pond, with the small burn that feeds it just beyond, which you can cross by means of a makeshift bridge (pictured).

You can shorten the walk here by following the path that forks away from the river and through a gap in the fence to the Devon Way. (See map.)

If you have difficulty crossing here, try the alternative of sticking to the riverbank and crossing closer to the end of the burn.

The bank below the pond is a good spot to watch bats, when they are active, which swoop down over the river as dusk starts to fall.

Erosion on the River Devon

The bank here has eroded enormously in the last few years (31 May 09)

Once over the burn follow the path through the lightly wooded area. This takes you several metres above the river level at the highest point, where the erosion of the bank is striking. (See photo.)

Two large trees have fallen into the river here since 2004 when I first came this way, with the remains of the latest cleared from the river only recently. It looked as if a couple of larger trees had also fallen not long earlier and at least two more mature trees are now under threat as the bend in the river continues to migrate north.

At 11 is a great spot to watch sand martins in the spring, as they regularly make and nest in burrows in the opposite bank.

From here there is an alternative path across to the Devon Way, though after sustained rain it tends to become waterlogged.

The bend in the river at 12 is growing rapidly. Yet another mature tree was swept away last autumn, the last of its trunk being removed earlier this spring.

Trees on unused bridge over the Devon Way

Trees now grow on the bridge over the Devon Way (31 May 09)

Last vehicle on the track

The last vehicle on the track to the bridge (31 May 09)

Instead of continuing immediately on the main route along river bank as it bends to the south, away from the hills, you may take a short detour onto the bridge over the Devon Way at 13, or take a short cut across the field to 15.

(Although I have found this field generally to be empty, there have been cattle in it from time to time in recent years.)

Climb the bank and enter the field through the gate at the far end, alongside the Devon Way.

I suggest looping down to avoid the often muddy top of the field before going through the nearby gate and turning right onto a disused and overgrown track.

Follow this onto the top of the bridge at 13, now overgrown with trees, where you can look along the Devon Way.

Online maps such as Multimap still show a track continuing here although it is years since a machete would have been enough to hack your way along it.

If you continue to the style at 15, note that it has no provision for dogs, though smaller ones will be able to step through the wire fence. Just enough people come this way to make a feint path that you should be able to find and which will lead you to the style even when the field is overgrown.

The main route continues along the riverbank and over a sturdy wooden fence at 14. The gaps between the timbers are narrow so, if you have a dog, you might have to persuade it to walk or swim around the end, if the state of the river permits.

Willow catkins

Willow catkins on the riverbank (March 2007)

The section of the walk between 14 and 15 is the least used and in places tends to get overgrown with nettles and other less irritating but equally path-obscuring foliage. For that reason I prefer to come this way during the winter.

The gap between fence and river near the style at 15 is getting narrower as the bank erodes and, although it is wide enough for safety at the time of writing, that might change.

The bank is high and falls away in chunks as it gets undercut by the river, so it is advisable walk a sensible distance from the edge. If necessary, step over the wire fence into the field.

But the provision of styles and consideration for walkers is generally good here, so I expect that changes will be made when they becomes necessary.

Follow the river to the bridge, climbing up to the style at 2. There is a hole through the fence for dogs.

From here, retrace your steps to the lay-by.

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